International Scale Modeller

I only had this kit half an hour and it was opened for inspection
I found myself playing around with it till 4am this morning
A quick look over the parts and the instructions before some dry fits. I like to get a feel of the kit and write a few notes before any major gluing takes place. The bike when completed OOTB measures 28cm long and the Acrylic colours recommended are as follows.
Flat Olive Drab, Flat Wood, Flat Leather, Metal (flat steel), Flat Rubber and Flat Black. But I wont be using those

first up the frame
it went together very well, some sanding to do but overall very good

you have to put the seat spring in the frame first before gluing the two half's together.
Not sure if I'm going to use the seat support yet but added just in case, I can always chop it off.

The cylinder head bolts were drilled out using various small drills. Better to start small in the centre and get bigger till the sides collapse and can be cleaned out. I will be using some 12BA bolts but I'm waiting on washers.
fiddley work but worth it.

Bit of a clean up and some washers and they should look a bit better.

Dry fit on these amazing forks. Springs look perfect
A lot to clean up but being a 1/9 scale the parts are easier to handle. The wheels were loosely fitted just to get an idea on size and what will be needed, the tyres are both the same.
I could do with a clock cog for the rear wheel scott

Frame securely fitted to my work bench.
well that's it for now but the night is still young
thanks for looking
mark (casper)

Awesome
Loving the look of this chunky bike.
Excellent job on the head's nut replacements, those look spectacular
You will notice I said nothing about the wheel spokes...oh shoot

Nice to see this, often wondered what this kit was like in the flesh. Will be watching with interest.

wheel spokes

Casper wrote: ↑Thu Apr 15, 2021 10:00 pm wheel spokes

You didn't hear it from me
Those kit ones don't look too out of scale though

Twokidsnosleep wrote: ↑Thu Apr 15, 2021 10:24 pm

Casper wrote: ↑Thu Apr 15, 2021 10:00 pm wheel spokes

You didn't hear it from me
Those kit ones don't look too out of scale though

There not too bad to be honest but... you just have to don't you

will be adding bolts here and there, its a case of see what looks the part.

What is your source for bolts and such mate???
@Casper

You certainly didn't waste any time getting started on it. Looks like a fun build!

Twokidsnosleep wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 12:26 am What is your source for bolts and such mate???
@Casper

https://prime-miniatures.co.uk/
http://www.microscrew.co.uk/
https://www.ba-bolts.co.uk/index.html
https://www.microfasteners.com/
https://www.newmantools.com/taps/micro.htm
https://model-motorcars.myshopify.com/c ... ware/bolts
http://ghw-modellbau.de/
https://knupfer.info/shop/
https://www.reactivemetals.com/
https://www.pollymodelengineering.co.uk/
https://hobby.uk.com/catalogsearch/resu ... ts&x=0&y=0
https://micro-modele.fr/en/?option=com_ ... 17&lang=fr

I decided to beef up the fork assembly to add strength like scott did on his amazing Baja Husky Bike.
the central plastic rod that goes through the fork is cut, drilled and a 2mm thread cut ready for the 2mm brass bar.

M2 tap quickly cuts a thread through a 1.7mm pilot hole

The top 7mm of the 2mm threaded bar was reduced and a 1.6mm thread added for the crown nut and a steel tube the correct length for over the thread to fit snuggly in the frame.

sorry about the photos, macro shot close up

Casper wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 4:41 pm M2 tap quickly cuts a thread through a 1.7mm pilot hole

Loving this ...you sure you weren’t ‘t born in Canada ?
It will add so much strength.
I wish I used a fully threaded rod and tapped the plastic like that as my front forks are a bit loosely goosey
I was lazy and only threaded the ends for nuts and left the middle smooth
Lesson learned for next time

Thank you for all those bolt/screw sources...awesome

It should all pull together on final fit

Twokidsnosleep wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 4:47 pm

Casper wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 4:41 pm M2 tap quickly cuts a thread through a 1.7mm pilot hole

Loving this ...you sure you weren’t ‘t born in Canada ?
It will add so much strength.
I wish I used a fully threaded rod and tapped the plastic like that as my front forks are a bit loosely goosey
I was lazy and only threaded the ends for nuts and left the middle smooth
Lesson learned for next time

Thank you for all those bolt/screw sources...awesome

Hi scott
some good links but most I use are in the UK. micro fasteners are hard to find in quantity and can be expensive, BA bolts are a little cheaper.

The 2mm nut at the bottom will be removed once its assembled and smoothed off, Its holding everything together at the moment.
The fork assembly is strong when fully assembles because of the way it goes together with the springs and looks the part. Lots of clean up to do on the parts as you can see.

"Loving this ...you sure you weren’t ‘t born in Canada"
They found me under a bush near Snowdon

Casper wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 4:58 pm "Loving this ...you sure you weren’t ‘t born in Canada"
They found me under a bush near Snowdon

We are more alike than my brother and I are

Nice idea, got to look better than plastic as well.

Twokidsnosleep wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 5:04 pm

Casper wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 4:58 pm "Loving this ...you sure you weren’t ‘t born in Canada"
They found me under a bush near Snowdon

We are more alike than my brother and I are

WordenB wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 6:00 pm Nice idea, got to look better than plastic as well.

It should hopefully look better than the plastic and glue and helps reduce sag when up on two wheels.

I noticed I put the push fit parts on the wrong way and needed to remove them but three out of the four snapped so I now have to drill them out and re-fit somehow
I need to put an order in for some different sized brass bolts and rivets for the engine, casing and frame, I only have a few sizes at hand and looking over the parts there are lots of bolts I wont be changing them all of course but some of the more prominent ones for detail.



I drilled out the bits snapped in the holes and will now have to drill out the end of the forks


mark

Very good job, your Harley will be awesome!

ForeverPlasticKits wrote: ↑Fri Apr 16, 2021 8:26 pm Very good job, your Harley will be awesome!

Thank you

I cut off the plastic bolts heads and drilled the two holes either side 1mm and used 12 BA hex head nuts and bolts, the third hole to secure the wheel takes a 2mm threaded bar inside a steel tube.
I think I will change the brass 2mm washers (bit smaller), nuts and stud bar for steel or nickel coated so I wont have to paint them.
The two 12 BA threads sticking out will be cut to length later, these are the fixing points on either side for the front wheel guard.
I wasn't planning on using the front guard but they would be there on the real bike so will keep them long for now.
The trouble with some micro bolts especially the BA variety the hex heads can be a little high, the width is perfect. I may shave some off the ends to thin them out a little before final fit. suspension works perfectly

Some good modifications going on here.

In that last photo you really show the good detail in the wheels and spokes
I don’t think I would re spoke them.
Even has a tire valve moulded in nicely

This bike looks great

digger303 wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 12:31 am Some good modifications going on here.

Thanks matey enjoying this one

Twokidsnosleep wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 1:05 am In that last photo you really show the good detail in the wheels and spokes
I don’t think I would re spoke them.
Even has a tire valve moulded in nicely

This bike looks great

Thanks scott Its a nice kit, some parts could be better. After playing around with it for a few hours you notice more seam lines and push rod marks to fill but not too bad really.
I managed to mount the rear wheel using 2mm stud bar but This will be changed along with the front one to steel or nickel plated.

Your right about the spokes, they do look pretty good compared to the Bentley I was thinking steel piano wire with steel sleeves and only the rims painted but will give it some thought.
sorry about the pics, lighting is terrible for photos at night in my cave.

The tiny hex head bolts didn't look the part on the engine casing so I'm going to use Pins instead (Dry fit). I use different sized pins a lot on models and they can look very effective. If you can match the scale of rivets its a good way to save money instead of buying the expensive brass ones. On the bike I think they would have been flat head screw.

The petrol tank is fixed either side of the frame, will have to take a closer look because I wanted to paint the tank before it goes on the frame.

OMG check out the chain scott, its rubber. How on earth does it go over the rear cog with no holes

Casper wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 2:07 am OMG check out the chain scott, its rubber. How on earth does it go over the rear cog with no holes

Holy crap
Never seen that before. The sides do look good with rivet details

Twokidsnosleep wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 2:56 am

Casper wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 2:07 am OMG check out the chain scott, its rubber. How on earth does it go over the rear cog with no holes

Holy crap
Never seen that before. The sides do look good with rivet details

That's got to be the worst chain I've ever seen I have no idea how your supposed to fit it. It has no holes and is about 2mm thick. looks terrible.
£50
https://www.hiroboy.com/19_Motorcycle_C ... -9921.html

Casper wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 1:50 am The tiny hex head bolts didn't look the part on the engine casing so I'm going to use Pins instead (Dry fit). I use different sized pins a lot on models and they can look very effective. If you can match the scale of rivets its a good way to save money instead of buying the expensive brass ones. On the bike I think they would have been flat head screw.

Yep that was a good decision losing the hex bolts.

I wont be using the floppy rubber seat (yuck!) so will have a bash at making my own and see how it looks.
first up some styrene cut to shape.

Top one slightly smaller

Four pads cut from sticky back felt, colour doesn't matter.

One on top of tuther

Back to the bottom piece.
One of the frames to protect the rear luggage wont be used so I cut it up and used it for the seat.
Starting at the top slowly glue in place with Tamiya thin cement. The cement can act as a softener along with your warm fingers to manipulate the plastic as you go.

just the small joints to fill either end.

mark

Dry fit together



mark

I drill some sprue to fit over the posts on the frame and cut them to length at an angle. put them on the posts and put some poly glue on the ends and sat the seat frame on top. I will leave it to dry so I can take it off in one piece to paint the frame and finish up the seat. I can trim the bottom of the pipe to suit later and add some better springs.



mark

Loving this build!

On the spokes, I have used 0.5mm piano wire and either 0.7 or 0.8mm alloy microtube from Albion alloys (it cuts easily) on the KH250 that I am building, for chrome effect spokes, either dressmaking pins or entomology pins, depending on how thick you want them.

Where did you get the Mini Bike Bench?

Mumbly wrote: ↑Sat Apr 17, 2021 11:43 pm Loving this build!

On the spokes, I have used 0.5mm piano wire and either 0.7 or 0.8mm alloy microtube from Albion alloys (it cuts easily) on the KH250 that I am building, for chrome effect spokes, either dressmaking pins or entomology pins, depending on how thick you want them.

Where did you get the Mini Bike Bench?

Hi Mumbly
I was thinking of using 0.7 Piano wire or for the natural look and paint the rims on this kit, I'm using 0.5mm brass and 0.6mm wire sleeves on my Bentley wheels and getting there slowly.

I used fuse wire for piping the very thin Black leather but couldn't find my tube of leather glue think it got thrown out after going hard.
Ok plan B, I used PVA glue to stick down the wire but its not like leather adhesive, that stuff really sticks and hugs the wire.
when it fully dries I can maybe manipulate the leather to flatten it down a little and give it the well used look.
You will notice one of the seat posts came away with the seat frame I managed to pull it out with some pliers and fix it.

a little glue on the felt as well