The Tiger I
About this soundlisten (help·info) is a German heavy tank of World War II that was employed from 1942 in Africa and Europe, usually in independent heavy tank battalions. Its final designation was Panzerkampfwagen VI Tiger Ausf. E often shortened to Tiger. The Tiger I gave the German Army its first armoured fighting vehicle that mounted the 8.8 cm KwK 36 gun (not to be confused with the 8.8 cm Flak 36). 1,347 were built between August 1942 and August 1944.[10] After August 1944, production of the Tiger I was phased out in favour of the Tiger II.
While the Tiger I has been called an outstanding design for its time, it was over-engineered, using expensive materials and labour-intensive production methods. The Tiger was prone to certain types of track failures and breakdowns, and was limited in range by its high fuel consumption. It was expensive to maintain, but generally mechanically reliable. It was difficult to transport, and vulnerable to immobilisation when mud, ice, and snow froze between its overlapping and interleaved Schachtellaufwerk-pattern road wheels, often jamming them solid. This was a problem on the Eastern Front in the muddy rasputitsa season and during periods of extreme cold.[citation needed]
The tank was given its nickname "Tiger" by Ferdinand Porsche, and the Roman numeral was added after the later Tiger II entered production. The initial designation was Panzerkampfwagen VI Ausführung H (‘‘Panzer VI version H’’, abbreviated PzKpfw VI Ausf. H) where 'H' denoted Henschel as the designer/manufacturer. It was classified with ordnance inventory designation Sd.Kfz. 182. The tank was later re-designated as PzKpfw VI Ausf. E in March 1943, with ordnance inventory designation Sd.Kfz. 181.
Today, only seven Tiger I tanks survive in museums and private collections worldwide. Tiger 131 at the UK's Tank Museum, which was captured during the North Africa Campaign, is currently the only one restored to running order.
Design history
Earlier designs
Henschel & Sohn began the development of a large tank design in January 1937 when the Waffenamt requested Henschel to develop a Durchbruchwagen ("breakthrough vehicle") in the 30–33 tonne range. Only one prototype hull was ever built and it was never fitted with a turret. The Durchbruchwagen I's general shape and suspension resembled the Panzer III, while the turret resembled the early Panzer IV C turret with the short-barrelled 7.5 cm L/24 cannon.
Before Durchbruchwagen I was completed, a request was issued for a heavier 30-tonne class vehicle with thicker armour; this was the Durchbruchwagen II, which would have had 50 mm (2 in) of frontal armour and mounted a Panzer IV turret with a short-barrelled 7.5 cm L/24 gun. Overall weight would have been 36 tonnes. Only one hull was built and no turret was fitted. Further development of the Durchbruchwagen was dropped in 1938 in favour of the larger and better-armoured VK 30.01 (H) and VK 36.01 (H) designs.[c] Both the Durchbruchwagen I and II prototype hulls were used as test vehicles until 1941.
Another attempt
The VK 30.01 (H) medium tank and the VK 36.01 (H) heavy tank designs pioneered the use of the complex Schachtellaufwerk track suspension system of torsion bar-sprung, overlapped and interleaved main road wheels for tank use. This concept was already common on German half-tracks such as the Sd.Kfz. 7. The VK 30.01 (H) was intended to mount a low-velocity 7.5 cm L/24 infantry support gun, a 7.5 cm L/40 dual purpose anti-tank gun, or a 10.5 cm L/28 field gun in a Krupp turret. Overall weight was to be 33 tonnes. The armour was designed to be 50 mm on frontal surfaces and 30 mm on the side surfaces. Four prototype hulls were completed for testing. Two of these were later modified to build the "Sturer Emil" (12.8 cm Selbstfahrlafette L/61) self-propelled anti-tank gun.
The VK 36.01 (H) was intended to weigh 40 tonnes, with 100 mm (4 in) of armour on front surfaces, 80 mm on turret sides and 60 mm on the hull sides. The VK 36.01 (H) was intended to carry a 7.5 cm L/24, or a 7.5 cm L/43, or a 7.5 cm L/70, or a 12.8 cm L/28 cannon in a Krupp turret that looked similar to an enlarged Panzer IV Ausf. C turret. The hull for one prototype was built, followed later by five more. The six turrets built were never fitted and were used as part of the Atlantic Wall. The VK 36.01 (H) project was discontinued in early 1942 in favour of the VK 45.01 project.
Further improvements
Combat experience against the French SOMUA S35 cavalry tank and Char B1 heavy tank, and the British Matilda II infantry tanks during the Battle of France in June 1940 showed that the German Army needed better armed and armoured tanks.
On 26 May 1941, Henschel and Ferdinand Porsche were asked to submit designs for a 45-tonne heavy tank, to be ready by June 1942. Porsche worked on an updated version of their VK 30.01 (P) Leopard tank prototype while Henschel worked on an improved VK 36.01 (H) tank. Henschel built two prototypes: a VK 45.01 (H) H1 with an 8.8 cm L/56 cannon, and a VK 45.01 (H) H2 with a 7.5 cm L/70 cannon.
Final designs
On 22 June 1941, Germany launched Operation Barbarossa, the invasion of the Soviet Union. The Germans were shocked to encounter Soviet T-34 medium and KV-1 heavy tanks, and, according to Henschel designer Erwin Aders: "There was great consternation when it was discovered that the Soviet tanks were superior to anything available to the Heer."
An immediate weight increase to 45 tonnes and an increase in gun calibre to 8.8 cm was ordered. The due date for the new prototypes was set for 20 April 1942, Adolf Hitler's 53rd birthday. Unlike the Panther tank, the designs did not incorporate sloped armour, an innovation taken from the T-34.
Model reconstruction of VK 4501 (P) Porsche prototype
Porsche and Henschel submitted prototype designs, each making use of the Krupp-designed turret. They were demonstrated at Rastenburg in front of Hitler. The Henschel design was accepted, mainly because the Porsche VK 4501 (P) prototype design used a troubled gasoline-electric hybrid power unit which needed large quantities of copper for manufacture of its electrical drivetrain components, a strategic war material of which Germany had limited supplies with acceptable electrical properties for such uses. Production of the Panzerkampfwagen VI Ausf. H began in August 1942. Expecting an order for his tank, Porsche built 100 chassis. After the contract was awarded to Henschel, they were used for a new turretless, casemate-style tank destroyer; 91 hulls were converted into the Panzerjäger Tiger (P) in early 1943.
Early tiger with tall cupola
The Tiger was still at the prototype stage when it was first hurried into service, and therefore changes both large and small were made throughout the production run. A redesigned turret with a lower cupola was the most significant change. To cut costs, the submersion capability and an external air-filtration system were dropped.
Design
The Tiger differed from earlier German tanks principally in its design philosophy. Its predecessors balanced mobility, armour and firepower, and were sometimes outgunned by their opponents.
While heavy, this tank was not slower than the best of its opponents. However, at over 50 tonnes dead weight, the suspension, gearboxes, and other such items had clearly reached their design limits and breakdowns were frequent if regular maintenance was not undertaken.
Although the general design and layout were broadly similar to the previous medium tank, the Panzer IV, the Tiger weighed more than twice as much. This was due to its substantially thicker armour, the larger main gun, greater volume of fuel and ammunition storage, larger engine, and a more solidly built transmission and suspension.
Armour
The Tiger I's armour was up to 120 mm on the gun mantlet.
The Tiger I had frontal hull armour 100 mm (3.9 in) thick, frontal turret armour of 100 mm (3.9 in) and a 120 mm (4.7 in) thick gun mantlet. The Tiger had 60 mm (2.4 in) thick hull side plates and 80 mm armour on the side superstructure/sponsons, while turret sides and rear were 80 mm. The top and bottom armour was 25 mm (1 in) thick; from March 1944, the turret roof was thickened to 40 mm (1.6 in). Armour plates were mostly flat, with interlocking construction. The armour joints were of high quality, being stepped and welded rather than riveted and were made of maraging steel.
Gun
Turmzielfernrohr TZF 9c gun sight
Main article: 8.8 cm KwK 36
The 56-calibre long 8.8 cm KwK 36 was chosen for the Tiger. A combination of a flat trajectory from the high muzzle velocity and precision from Leitz Turmzielfernrohr TZF 9b sight (later replaced by the monocular TZF 9c) made it very accurate. In British wartime firing trials, five successive hits were scored on a 410 by 460 mm (16 by 18 in) target at a range of 1,100 metres (3,600 ft). Compared with the other contemporary German tank guns, the 8.8 cm KwK 36 had superior penetration to the 7.5 cm KwK 40 on the Sturmgeschütz III and Panzer IV but inferior to the 7.5 cm KwK 42 on the Panther tank under ranges of 2,500 metres. At greater ranges, the 8.8 cm KwK 36 was superior in penetration and accuracy.
The ammunition for the Tiger had electrically fired primers. Four types of ammunition were available but not all were fully available; the PzGr 40 shell used tungsten, which was in short supply as the war progressed.
Crew working on the engine through the hatch on the rear hull roof
The rear of the tank held an engine compartment flanked by two separate rear compartments each containing a fuel tank and radiator. The Germans had not developed an adequate diesel engine, so a petrol (gasoline) powerplant had to be used instead. The original engine utilised was a 21.35-litre (1303 cu.in.) 12-cylinder Maybach HL 210 P45 developing 485 kW (650 hp) at 3,000 rpm. Although a good engine, it was underpowered for the vehicle. From the 251st Tiger onwards, it was replaced by the upgraded HL 230 P45, a 23.095 litre (1409 cu.in.) engine developing 521 kW (700 hp) at 3,000 rpm. The main difference between these engines was that the original Maybach HL 210 used an aluminium engine block while the Maybach HL 230 used a cast-iron engine block. The cast-iron block allowed for larger cylinders (and thus, greater displacement) which increased the power output to 521 kW (700 hp). The engine was in V-form, with two cylinder banks set at 60 degrees. An inertia starter was mounted on its right side, driven via chain gears through a port in the rear wall. The engine could be lifted out through a hatch on the rear hull roof. In comparison to other V12 and various vee-form gasoline engines used for tanks, the eventual HL 230 engine was nearly four litres smaller in displacement than the Allied British Rolls-Royce Meteor V12 AFV powerplant, itself adapted from the RR Merlin but de-rated to 448 kW (600 hp) power output; and the American Ford-designed precursor V12 to its Ford GAA V-8 AFV engine of 18 litre displacement, which in its original V12 form would have had the same 27 litre displacement as the Meteor.
The engine drove the front sprockets through a drivetrain connecting to a transmission in the front portion of the lower hull; the front sprockets had to be mounted relatively low as a result. The Krupp-designed 11-tonne turret had a hydraulic motor whose pump was powered by mechanical drive from the engine. A full rotation took about a minute.
Another new feature was the Maybach-Olvar hydraulically controlled semi-automatic pre-selector gearbox. The extreme weight of the tank also required a new steering system. Germany's Argus Motoren, where Hermann Klaue had invented a ring brake in 1940, supplied them for the Arado Ar 96 and also supplied the 55 cm disc. Klaue acknowledged in the patent application that he had merely improved on existing technology, that can be traced back to British designs dating to 1904. It is unclear whether Klaue's patent ring brake was utilised in the Tiger brake design.
The clutch-and-brake system, typical for lighter vehicles, was retained only for emergencies. Normally, steering depended on a double differential, Henschel's development of the British Merritt-Brown system first encountered in the Churchill tank. The vehicle had an eight-speed gearbox, and the steering offered two fixed radii of turns on each gear, thus the Tiger had sixteen different radii of turn. In first gear, at a speed of a few km/h, the minimal turning radius was 3.44 m (11 ft 3 in). In neutral gear, the tracks could be turned in opposite directions, so the Tiger I pivoted in place. There was a steering wheel instead of either a tiller — or, as most tanks had at that time, twin braking levers — making the Tiger I's steering system easy to use, and ahead of its time.
Suspension
Clear view of the Tiger I's Schachtellaufwerk overlapping and interleaved road wheels during production
The suspension used sixteen torsion bars, with eight suspension arms per side. To save space, the swing arms were leading on one side and trailing on the other. There were three road wheels (one of them double, closest to the track's centre) on each arm, in a so-called Schachtellaufwerk overlapping and interleaved arrangement, similar to that pioneered on German half-tracked military vehicles of the pre-World War II era, with the Tiger I being the first all-tracked German AFV built in quantity to use such a road wheel arrangement. The wheels had a diameter of 800 mm (31 in) in the Schachtellaufwerk arrangement for the Tiger I's suspension, providing a high uniform distribution of the load onto the track, at the cost of increased maintenance.
Wheel and track maintenance in muddy conditions
Removing an inner wheel that had lost its solid rubber tire (a common occurrence) required the removal of up to nine other wheels first. During the rainy period that brought on the autumn rasputitsa mud season and onwards into the winter conditions on the Eastern front, the roadwheels of a Schachtellaufwerk-equipped vehicle could also become packed with mud or snow that could then freeze. Presumably, German engineers, based on the experience of the half tracks, felt that the improvement in off-road performance, track and wheel life, mobility with wheels missing or damaged, plus additional protection from enemy fire was worth the maintenance difficulties of a complex system vulnerable to mud and ice. This approach was carried on, in various forms, to the Panther and the non-interleaved wheel design for the Tiger II. Eventually, a new 80 cm diameter 'steel' wheel design, closely resembling those on the Tiger II, with an internally sprung steel-rim tire was substituted, and which like the Tiger II, were only overlapped and not interleaved.
Tiger at the Henschel plant is loaded onto a special rail car. The outer road wheels have been removed and narrow tracks put in place to decrease vehicle width, allowing it to fit within the loading gauge of the German rail network.
To support the considerable weight of the Tiger, the tracks were 725 mm (2 ft 4.5 in) wide. To meet rail-freight size restrictions, the outermost roadwheel on each axle (16 total) could be unbolted from a flange and narrower 520 mm (20 in) wide 'transport' tracks (Verladeketten) installed. The track replacement and wheel removal took 30 minutes for each side of the tank. However, in service, Tigers were frequently transported by rail with their combat tracks fitted, as long as the train crew knew there were no narrow tunnels or other obstructions on the route that would prevent an oversized load from passing, despite this practice being strictly forbidden.
Personally, I don't mind the DS tracks. I know people have had problems with the way they were packed, but yours seem well protected. Fruil's are nice, but a lot of money.
Lets make a start on this, looking at the instructions each part looks very busy with options from the start but here goes. ( i'm not sure this is the norm with cyber-hobby kits or just this one).
There are so many options and detail up parts for me this will be tricky but i will try my best.
To start with there is an option for the wheels and looking at the wheel sprues the two different options look exactly the same to me.
Parts G10 and G11 are not the parts in the insructions but on looking through the sprues for these parts it seams that there are 3 sprues labeled G so this will make it a little more tricky when looking for parts.
Here are all the pieces for part 1 and 2 all cleaned up using the various grades of Ultimate sanders.
Parts 1 and 2 complete and dry fitted the rear spools are held in place with some white tack has these are adjustable for applying the tracks and will be painted seperatly along with the wheels.
Part 3 the rest of the wheels again there are 2 options and agin they look exactly the same.
These instructions are more complicated than i think the dragon ones are lol ( or it could just be me).
Parts 4,5 and 6 sort of roll into one unless it's just me.
The rest of the wheels and the back plate in place.
Again the wheel options look the same.
I think this is all the parts for section 5 but we'll see.
Time to add some PE
The tools i have for this with the addition of the Tamiya diamond file it really does make short work of cleaning up the PE
The part S1 is a clear part
So i'm not sure if i should add it now or at the end of the build. Any advice on this would be greatfull.
That's where i'm at now.
Thanks for taking a look and for your comments.
Happy modelling.
This next part is with a little interior now these 2 main parts are not numbered in the instructions J11 and J12.
Time for some more PE. These will be painted up before placing in the lower interior hull.
The spare track links assembly for the front of the hull are next.
and the side detail
The internals have now been primed in Ultimate grey primer.
Then painted up with a mix of 95% mr hobby H-8 silver and 5% mr hobby H-2 black
Then detail painted using Vallejo model metallic steel, Tamiya XF-6 copper and mr hobby H-327 red.
Then a little A-mig blue black panel line was was used for a little accent but this will not be seen once the hull is closed up but i will know it is there.
Back from my summer break.
Now i did these parts before the break and i have lost my notes which i make throughout each of my builds.
So i will just post the photo's i have and hopefully get back on track in my next update.
I appologise for this
These last 6 shots are the kit tools along with the PE clasps which i have pre bent ready for attaching the tools if i don't use the kit ones.
Again i appologise for this short uninformed section but the next update will put me back on track.
So lets get back on track with this build and attach the tools this was a little tricky has the PE was so small they are not great but they are on.
Now for the engine grille covers which uses more PE
For gluing these PE grilles to the plastic i thought i'd ues the flex i file CA applicater that i have had for a while but never used before and i found it easier to use that a cocktail stick/toothpick so i'll be using it more often.
I have also made up the lights which i will add at a later date when the upper hull is put on the lower section so i don't knock them off.
A few more parts have been cleaned up and added to the upper hull and the front plate
So now to fit the upper hull ( there ia a major fit issue with this there are what looks like 4 location points on the lower section and corrisponding struts on the upper section but when these are lined up the upper section is too far forward thus we have some big gaps )
So i cut these struts off and with a lot of clamping and gluing and filling any gaps with sprue glue this is the best that i could do to rectify this.
At this point i was loosing my mojo with this build and considered bining it however after a couple of days break i worked on the barrel and the turret which you will see went together really well which boosted my mojo.
For the barrel there is the kit parts or the alluminium one so i went with the metal one
A few more parts to the barrel were added.
Then to start on the turret i did add the hatch detail and the seats even though i will have this buttoned up ( But who knows i my recycle this and open it up in the future)
That is all for now thanks for taking a look and for your comment.
Lovely build log Gaz I'm watching with interest, I've got a few Tiger 1s in my stash mostly Dragon kits. Looking at your kit it would appear Cyber-hobby and Dragon are one and the same?
Kev
On the bench:
Border Model FOCKE-WULF W190A-8 R2 - 8
Kevthemodeller wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2019 8:50 am
Lovely build log Gaz I'm watching with interest, I've got a few Tiger 1s in my stash mostly Dragon kits. Looking at your kit it would appear Cyber-hobby and Dragon are one and the same?
Cyber-hobby are usually Dragons old kits. However sometimes they do special limited run kits which are right up there. One and the same company as well.
digger303 wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2019 12:48 am
Loving the step by step build explanations, even the bits that don't go together as well as they should. I can see your gonna win through
Kevthemodeller wrote: ↑Wed Oct 02, 2019 8:50 am
Lovely build log Gaz I'm watching with interest, I've got a few Tiger 1s in my stash mostly Dragon kits. Looking at your kit it would appear Cyber-hobby and Dragon are one and the same?
Cyber-hobby are usually Dragons old kits. However sometimes they do special limited run kits which are right up there. One and the same company as well.
Right it's been a while has this build has been zapping my mojo but here goes with the next part the tow cables and clamps.
Has i have said earlier i will be using the metal extra detail cable and using the kit ones has a guide has to cuting the metal ones to length along with some PE clamps that are very small i hope i can make it look reasonable.
To start with the kit cables are numbered wrongly for each side.
After looking at the location of these cables the parts that i cut off to fit the upper hull top are where the cables and clamps fix to so i'll see how best i can work this.
There are 2 different thicknesses of cable so i will use the thickest has this fits better into the tow eyes.
So firstly i used some CA glue to attach one end of the cable to the eye, while this sets up i'll attempt to bend the PE clamps and if this fails i will use the kit ones.
While trying to fit all these in place i managed to loose some of the PE clamps due to them pinging off into the unknown maybe never to be seen again.
So here is one side finished with the use of the kit parts has well has the PE ones.
Now here are the completed tow cables.
Now the last few parts added to the upper hull plate.
Now to finish off the turret.
The side skirts are next then apart from the tracks the build is finally finished and i'm so glad that part is finished so all that's left is the painting.
A quick mock up to see how it looks before priming.
So to put some primer down on for this i will use Ultimate Olive primer has i have a full bottle and not used it has yet and i feel this will work best on the final camo colours.
So there i am for now.
For the next part of painting i think i'll attach the wheels with white tack just to hold them in place while i do the camo and this way i can remove them to do some weathering especially to the plate above and behind the wheels.
Thank you foe hanging around with this build, your time and for your comments. Untill next time happy modelling.
Just a small update but an important one the paint.
So i did attach the wheels with some white tack for this part of painting.
I have picked out the three colours i will use for the camo.
Firstly i used mr hobby H-71 middle stone as the base.
For the 2nd colour i used mr hobby H-80 khaki green which i dusted on all over
( I forgot to photo this part )
Then for the 3rd colour will be splashes of mr hobby H-47 red brown, I think i may have overdone this a little but with some weathering i'm sure it will dull down somewhat.
For the next part i will glue the wheels in place, do some detail painting then a clear coat before adding the decals.
Thanks for looking and your comments they are much appriciated.
Right so to get this finished.
The wheels have been fitted with CA glue apart from the front sprockets and the rear tensioners i think these will be glued once the tracks go on.
A little detail painting done using ammo mig 037 new wood. Tamiya x-10 gun metal for the tools and the tow cables and for the spare tracks i have used ammo mig 035 dark tracks. then a base coat of revell rust on the exhausts.
Then once dry it will be clear coated for this i used a 50-50 mix tamiya x-22 to mr hobby leveling thinner in preperation for the 2 decals.
So set up for doing the decals it seams a lot of kit just for 2 decals but you never know how they will go.
With using the Ultimate decal solutions they have gone down really well and i'm very happy with the outcome and once dry they will be clear coated again just to seal them in.
The tracks have been primed in the Ultimate olive primer with keeping the tone of the colour with the spare tracks.
Once dry they were painted in the ammo mig 035 dark track then once that was dry i rubbed over these with a HB pencil to try to simulate ware.
The tracks have now been added in a fashion i think i need a bit more practice with these vynal tracks i tried to simulate the sag by using CA glue and some grips has wedges.
To try to tone down the exhaust i have added some orange rust weathering powder from tamiya and some revell rust red powder which will add a little rust texture has well
Just to side track while this all dries i have cut the remaing parts from the sprues into a spares container and there is nearly enough parts to make up another tank of some sorts
Back to the build i have some revell deep black powder which i have mixed with a little vallejo matt varnish that i have and added this to the exhaust tops and the muzzle brake.
Once this is all dry i have coated this with some Alclad II Klear coat matt and i think i'll call this finished.
So there we are Thanks again for taking the time to look and to comment.
I will post some final photo's in the reveal section.
Always wanted to build a Fehrmann Tiger now I have a gold standard to aspire to...
All those left over bits would be good for junk heap with a workshop diorama, maybe with a 16t gantry crane nearby. Might be a bit big maybe space wise.
Keep up the good work.