Headless Horseman 1/8th Polar Lights

[Lysus]

Someday I'll try some lighting, but probably on a sci-fi jet or something straightforward. Can't imagine feeding a wire through an arm or a horse leg. Can't wait to see what happens next...

[pir8hntr]

I've got the seams filled in the legs with milliput and I'm getting to glue thrm on, but there is a couple of big seams where they join and I'll show some photos of it. The wiring on the horse and the headless dude isn't going to give me(famous last words statement coming up) too much problem. The rest of the diorama is probably going to make me question my sanity and general thought processes. It already has to be honest with you.
pir8hntr

[pir8hntr]

Flash Mr. and Mrs America and all ships at sea. Here is the latest update on the Headless Horseman. I got the legs glued on the lower body, but there is some major fit issues. Where the legs glue onto the lower body, the body portion is flat and the legs are dished in towards the center of the leg and on the left leg, it only makes contact in a couple of places. The lower body also has a big bulge on the end of the legs, then has a smaller diameter bare portion toward the end. The holes in the body and the pins in the legs, move the legs toward the center of the body. I trimmed the pins and elongated the holes to move them outward. MEMO TO SELF: check to make sure you have the left leg on the left side and the right leg on the right side. You can swap them from side to side and they will fit trust me. The leather leggings I raised up possibly a mite too high, but they set high anyway. Okay, now the lights in the horses head and in the body. I was going to use individual NANO lights for each eye, but that presented a problem in a way. I would have to run two lights to the horses head, and a third into the body of the horseman. So after seeing how much light the green stickons put out, I went away from the NANO LEDs and went to the stick on red lights. That way I can do all the painting, shading etc, then drill out the eyes, nostrils, mouth if I want to and only need one light for the horses head. I stressed over how I was going to light up headless's neck, yet not have an opening that just looked into the body when the light wasn't on. I had more Rube Goldberg, Grouse Creek Field Engineered idea from casting a clear part, to cutting and painting a piece of clear styrene black then scribing lines in it. Then suddenly I had a brilliant flash of an idea. I would cut the opening out and just leave a rim around it to support the part that goes in there, so I can remove it when I want light, or put it back on when I don't. Now, how do I keep from losing the part? I drilled a hole in the tab that went into the slot and will put a piece of wire with a weight on it to keep it in place. The inside of the horses head is painted white as is the headless's body. The lights are mounted to the brackets and the wires are just run loosely for right now. If you notice, the inside rear leg on the horse is off. I was cutting a groove in it with a saw and had a piece of metal in it to spread it, when the leg popped off. Now this was put on with TET and when you look at it, the TET did slightly melt the plastic all the way around the seam on the leg. I don't know if I will glue it again with TET or super glue. Gotta think on that one. So here are the photos of what I have been babbling on about. Twokidsnosleep talked about using the green lights in the body and I thought about it, but I am using green lights in another portion of the diorama, so I that's why I went with the red ones.

just temporarily stuck on base.

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wiring being run

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[Twokidsnosleep]

I am liking everything that is going on here
The wiring demo is a ton of information and love what you are doing...and doing it right!!
Great stuff
, Scott

ps, your photography is top notch as well..makes such a difference to see nice clear pictures, even your workbench WIP's are awesome

[Twokidsnosleep]

Oh hey, when you finish off, you HAVE to do another video, this time with the finished kit showing off the lighting
That will be cool

[pir8hntr]

Thanks for the kind comments. This started out as just a simple OOB, then I don't know if I smacked my head or just had a flashback to the 60's and started on the build as you see it now with a diorama planned for it. There are other ways to do lighting, but this is the way I chose due to the fact I got a 40% discount off of everything I bought, so it made it cheap enough I could afford it. I've made a couple of mistakes on assembly, the pumpkin comes to mind, and the right rear inside leg of the horse where the wiring needed to go. But when that was put on, I hadn't decided to wire it. The wiring should be finished this week for the horse and headless's body. Yea, I'll do a reveal and I'll do a video on my channel showing the finished build with the lights on it. Ya know, looking at that horse and headless on that base, it just dawned on me how big that diorama will be.
pir8hntr

[pir8hntr]

Here we go with a build update, a few photos and a screw up. I got the lights run in headless and his body assembled and one arm on. I used the Molly instead of the sword, so when I went to attach the arm, I noticed that the handle was all sorts of wimpy and scrawny where it went into the hand and came back out. I cut some different thicknesses of styrene to build it up and reshape it. I had to do that in three places, two above and one below the hand. I think I'll put some Tamiya primer on some spare styrene and see how it looks when I try to put wood grain in it before I try it on Molly. When you attach the upper body to the lower body, the tongue and groove setup to align it, has a lot of slop in it which is good and bad both. Good, because you can turn the body to one side slightly, bad because you can turn the body slightly to one side if you don't want to. Also it is like the legs, it doesn't have a large amount of contact area, so I started using super glue on it instead of TET. I put the arm on with Molly and that is where the screw up came in. Like the legs and the body, there is play in it that allows the arm to rotate and move back and forth. The arm actually lines up with the body fairly good when you get it in the right position, minimal seam, lines up good with the wrinkles, so minimal filler is needed. When I put the super glue on the arm, I let it set for a few seconds, then put the arm on. I went to rotate it to line up and it was stick a fork in me, I was done. It hit and stuck right now. The arm is out of align enough that there is a noticeable bulge/gap. Now normally it isn't that big of deal, but with all the wrinkles and folds it is a nightmare. I have tried Tamiya putty on this and found out that this plastic and that putty are the best friends in the world, they become one with the universe. I've had my best luck with Milliput on this so far, so that is what I'll use on the arm. I can fill the seam with it wet, then use a cloth or q tip to shape it and clean off the excess like I did on the legs. So here is some photos.
pir8hnter

Shims on Molly

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Another shim arm alignment

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Arm alignment

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[Twokidsnosleep]

Awesome
He does look a little psychotic with that huge axe in his mitt

[pir8hntr]

I didn't mention it when I posted the photos, but I put a pointy thingy on the back of the axe head. Makes it a little more sinister looking.
pir8hnter

[Les]

Great progress so far! When I got this kit, I was visualizing some nice glow effects in order to turn it into a nice Halloween decoration. I am glad to see I a not the only loon that escaped from the bin!

[schweinhund227]

This is a pretty cool project....

KUTGW !

[pir8hntr]

This is one of those projects or kit builds that only has 58 parts, that you could have done in a day or so, that just trips the switch about not doing that. I have modified headless's body and arm some more and I have the stuff to add to the horse also. I just keep adding and changing every time I sit down to work on it. Help me, I'm trapped in a space time warp. AAAARRRGGHH. Okay, I'm better now. I should have the horsie and headless ready to paint after this weekend and then I can start on the diorama which when I thought of it, I hadn't started to put the kit together and thought, how big can that be? Well, I've found out. Thanks for the comments and I hope this has sparked some ideas about doing one and keep you out of some of the traps I've fallen in.
pir8hntr

P.S. I vowed I wouldn't do another 2016 PoP build because of everything else I'm working on, but I bought another kit for another build to enter. Nope, not a headless. Two kits actually.

[Twokidsnosleep]

[youtube]Mwx3q0gBc70[/youtube]

This is the Grinch guy singing the song


Here is Bing Crosby
[youtube]M2epXvAfvRg[/youtube]

[Lysus]

Of all the days I forget to bring my headphones...

I hear ya about the tweaking spiral. But frankly this is the type of kit that really benefits from a personal touch. I think I've read and reread this thread three times now, keep going! Looking evil

[pir8hntr]

" I should have the horsie and headless ready to paint after this weekend and then I can start on the diorama." Severe case letting alligator mouth override hummingbird butt. I kept having one of those nagging things bothering me, kinda sorta like gluing the pumpkin together before painting the inside of it. I got the handle fixed on Molly because it was so out of proportion, but I kept looking at his left hand and it finally dawned on me what was wrong. It is about twice the size of his right hand. There is three different sized hands in this kit. One is the one holding Molly, one is the size of the one holding the sword, one is a spare one and one is the left one holding the pumpkin. I decided I was going to overhaul, modify and repair a spare right one into a left one. I haven't decided what he will be holding in his left hand, but the hand won't need to be too detailed. Since I decided to rotate the arm, I modified the mounting tab so I could do that. One issue with doing that, is the tab also helps keep the arm in place when it is glued on. All the mounting bases are dished, so all you get is a small area around the outside of the arm and body. If I was to do another one, and I would definitely do that if they ever release the original Ichabod Crane and his horse, I would look at using a couple small pieces of thin styrene to give it more to adhere to.

Different sized hands and some of the mods on the handle and head.

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pir8hntr

[Lysus]

That pumpkin hand looks so much bigger than the others, is it just the perspective/posture or is it really that out of scale to hold the grinning gourd?

[pir8hntr]

Grinning gourd? I like that. Yea it really is bigger than the others. When you put it on top of it, it really does cover a lot of area. If you use the pumpkin, I don't think it would be as noticeable as just the open hand. Now I have seen a resin kit that actually has one or two cut off heads that you could use with this, that I think fit into the hand. Don't quote me on that one because I'm not planning on using them and haven't researched it. The left hand I'm planning on using, I am having to reconstruct from an accident while trying to warm it up to reshape it. Basically a blob of plastic. One other thing about the left hand. The arm is smaller than it should be for a hand that size and it adds to the proportion thing.
pir8hntr

[pir8hntr]

Finally got a chance to get back to working on the horse. If you don't like kits that have fit issues, don't start on this one. The two halves of the body have two pieces that must be put in before the halves are put together. The problem is, the guide pin holes are too big to hold the parts on one half as you try to put it together. This can cause you to say bad things about this kit and modeling in general. I finally glued the two belly pieces to one half and then fit it together. Now, I found that TET doesn't work real well on this plastic and super glue works a lot better. The problem with that is, it can be a real trick to get it all lined up and snapped together before the glue sets up if you are using fast set. You are better off to use a slower setting gel type that gives you a little bit of working time. Voice of experience. The fit between the parts does leave a little bit to be desired, even when clamped. The head and neck of the horse snapped together without any problem, but the body was a different story. Again it can cause you to say bad words. There is some other issues that I'll cover in the next update with the seams and fit issues along with issues with the body and sword.
pir8hntr

Possible fit issue, ran out of big clamps

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seams on the belly parts

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more seam issues

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[pir8hntr]

This a continuation of the issues of gluing the horses body together. In the previous post, I talked about the issues of trying to get the body together because of poor fit. I managed to get the main part of the body together which is both sides and the belly and chest sections. Due to the fact that I didn't have much luck with TET, I had gone to using super glue gel, which gave me a slightly longer working time.The problem with that is the amount of surface area you must get glue on, lined up and squished together before the glue sets up. Not an easy trick for me.So all I glued together at first was the body. After that had set overnight, I started on the neck and head which I had only clicked together with the guide pins. I used a knife to pry the seam open on the bottom of the neck, then I used the spatula to spread it apart a little further. I filled the seam with the glue and clamped it together. Even at that, where the breast plate connects, it still doesn't match very good. I did the upper part of the neck next doing it the same way and even using the amount of clamps I did, I still ended up with a gap in the mane. The scabbard for the sword is a different story. It looks almost like they used a tree limb it is so rough, so I decided to smooth it out. I had two ways to do it. Fill all the rough spots with putty or sand it down. I sanded it down. The plastic is really strange to work with. I used some 240 grit sandpaper to start with, then I went to the Ultimate Thinny sticks. This plastic kinda sorta clogged up the thinny stick. It washed out, but it actually stained it tho. Not the sticks fault, just this plastic. I used a piece of 400 grit on it and it left it with a fogged look and when I used a paper towel to wipe the dust off, it looked like it had polished it. So I rubbed it a little harder and the paper towel polished it. As I said strange plastic. so here are some pictures of the neck fit issues.
pir8hntr

Bottom of neck clamping

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Mane area opened up

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Run out of room to clamp

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[pir8hntr]

Photos of the scabbard.

This is the one I polished with a paper towel after sanding with 400 grit

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This is what it looks like before being sanded and polished.

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[Lysus]

Certainly seems like this specter is battling you at every step. This plastic isn't standard styrene, is it? Apart from the weird smell you described at the beginning the way it's behaving when you sand and glue makes it sound like a terrible foe.

Glad you're so persistent, it's really starting to take shape.

[pir8hntr]

It got severely worse today in the battle between myself and the specter. When I did one of the first posts about this build, I commented about how it might be ABS plastic and the different types of glue I tested. Well, I had headless setting on the back of the horse while I did some photos about the fit of the two body halves and how it looks like he is wearing a tutu of some kind. I bumped the horse and he fell off and landed on my cutting mat and popped in half. I had put this together with TET as it had worked on the sprue pieces I had glued together, but if you remember, I had glued the inside of the horses back leg with TET, and it popped off when I put side pressure on it. I commented about it not melting the plastic at that time. When I looked at the two halves of the body, it was obvious that the contact area is very small and most of the TET had flowed onto the open area between the two halves. Now I have been using superglue on most of the parts, but I had to change from one super glue to a different type because of non-adhesion issues. I think I'll go to Krazy glue as I have had good luck with that in the past. The big problem with all of this is the parts aren't flat and have a raised outer area and a dished in center area. I have tried using styrene to fill it and sanding it down to the right thickness, but didn't work out too well. The issue of the offset body and weird tutu, I'll address in the next update, once I figure out how to fix this issue. Oh well back to the Space Coupe that has some issues of its own.
pir8hntr

Dished area of the two body parts.

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Where the TET flowed and didn't melt the plastic.

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Close up of gluing area. That opening is in the lower half of the body and I hadn't opened it up at all.

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[Lysus]

Ugh...does it do any good to build up some green stuff around the joins prior to putting them together with krazy glue?

Not sure how it would react, I'm just shooting from the hip if the contact surfaces are too small/gapped too widely.

[pir8hntr]

I don't have any of the green stuff, but I have the Milliput putty that is the two rolls, I have the kind that is in one roll, Tamiya putty and J-B Weld. The Milliput putty is a heavier putty and I don't know how well it would work If I put it between the two halves and squished it together. It might be too thick for that. The Tamiya and this plastic are very compatible and if you get it where you don't want it, it is tough, bordering on impossible to get it off. The J-B Weld is a thinner material and might work if I pit it on the low spot in the middle and put the super glue around the outside and squish it together. If you look at the bottom picture, between the bottom of the opening and the sprue cutter handle, is a dark area. This depression in the plastic has the corresponding raised portion on the upper body half that are supposed to line up and position the body. It doesn't line up good and allows the body to still twist from side ti side and slide from front to back. This is possibly where I have to put a bunch of glue and put the J-B Weld or what I choose to fill the low portion of the body halves and put it together. I agree with you that I don't know how they will react with any of the super glues, I will do some experimenting and let you know what I come up with.
pir8hntr

[Twokidsnosleep]

Still taking notes and following along
Sorry to hear of all the troubles
Keep at it, it will eventually give in

[pir8hntr]

I keep telling him that all he is, is a bunch of plastic and I am the product of millions of years of evolution and he will do what I tell him to do. The score is 1 to 0 his favor right now so you can see how well he pays attention. I won't give up. After discussing it with Lysus, I might have an answer to the glue issue. Hopefully I can get it figured out over the next couple of days.
pir8hntr

[pir8hntr]

Ya know, I keep looking at the at the part of the build description that says "FUN BUILD" and reminding myself of that. When we last left our intrepid builder he was working on a secret formula to glue headless back together. After much research, he might have found a way. Lysus suggested I try an item called green stuff to see if that would possibly work and had a question about how Krazy Glue might react with it. I have some Milliput putty and another two part epoxy that is supposed to adhere instantly to most plastics. I thought I would try the J-B Weld Kwik Weld which is a steel reinforced two part epoxy putty. This is the type you squeeze from two different tubes and mix together. It has a 6 minute work time and a 4 hour cure. I mixed it together and stuck three pieces of sprue together and set it aside to dry. After about 4 hours when I checked it, it still was a might tacky, not bad tho. This can be caused by excessive humidity, temperature, improper amounts of part A or B, several variables. So I took and put Krazy Glue on some of the Kwik Weld and after a minute or so, it had really softened it up. After the glue had dried for 5-10 minutes, I checked it again. It is back to about what it was before I applied the glue. I'm going to let it dry for the rest of the day and see how it turns out. I do know that even now, you can't bend the three pieces I stuck together and they aren't fully cured.
pir8hntr

J-B Kwick Weld container I used

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The three sprues I glued together. I can't get much detail with my tablet.

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[Lysus]

I'm eager to see the results...and hopeful. I'm glad you've the courage to try it out!

Chemistry was never my strong suit, but if the glue can hold a guy from an I-beam by his helmet, why not milliput? And yes, patience, always patience. Let the compounds and glue do their thing...

[Les]

Bummer to hear that the ol' Horseman is being stubborn about staying together; looking forward to hearing your results as I have this kit too and can go to school on you so to speak!

[pir8hntr]

Here we go with the ongoing and continuing saga of The pir8hntr VS The Headless Horseman. Hmm, sounds like a good title for a TV series. But I digress. I have had an ongoing fight with the glue not sticking parts together. Lysus advised me to have patience and believe me, this has stretched my patience to the stage of....Well it has stretched it. Lets go back to yesterday. I tried J-B KwikWeld on three of the sprues, let it dry, then put Krazy Glue over it to simulate the two of them getting intermixed while being used. The glue softened the J-B stuff up, then it hardened again. I could not bend the setup. I was looking at it and hooked the two pieces of sprue with a fingernail and popped them right off and I scrapped the J-B off the sprues just like it wasn't there. I took some J-B Plastic weld which works like Milliput, and stuck some sprues together. It setup harder than the back of a politicians head. I used some Milliput to stick some sprues together, and it never setup at all. I remixed some from the same two tubes and it setup finally, but took 10+ hours. One part of it broke off when I checked to see it it was dry. I used some J-B Plasticweld and put it between several pieces of styrene and let it set for 12 hrs. It never setup. you could rip it in half and it was flexible. I had a bottle of Gorilla Super Glue and decided to try that. I took two pieces of sprue and stuck them together and had to leave to go out of state for about six hours. When I came back, it was setup hard. This was the only glue I hadn't tried earlier. It appears to be the glue to use, he says after saying that before. The thing with the Milliput and the PlasticWeld not setting up, is really strange. They were mixed the same way as before, but just didn't work, They were mixed right, didn't use too much water on my fingers to keep the Milliput from sticking, etc. The same thing with the PlasticWeld. My worry is I will use this and it won't setup. It has worked good on the seams, but now, it is a 50/50 chance on it setting up. Neither one of these are old and have set around for a year, been froze, left unwrapped, etc. They both were purchased not that long ago. I'll buy some more and try using it and see how it works. I understand there is a modeling glue for ABS plastic, but I don't know the name.
pir8hntr

These are all the glues and putties I used

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[Lysus]

The internet says Methyl Ethyl Keytone (MEK). I have a feeling it's for plumbing, though, and it sounds tricky to use. But it seems RC modelers use it to fix their planes/boats. I'll try and get a good search on later tonight or tomorrow morning.

What a beast. Rest, my man, rest up.

[pir8hntr]

I found this listed for ABS plastics from Tamiya.
Tamiya Cement for ABS (40ml)
Tamiya Cement for ABS (40ml)

Tamiya Cement for ABS is specially formulated for use with ABS plastic parts such as the masts in 1/350 scale ship model kits, which cannot be attached with normal plastic cement. This cement can also be used to cement ABS plastic parts to styrene parts. The bottle cap features a integrated applicator brush.
Specs:
Volume: 40ml
sorry but photo didn't work when I tried to add it.
pir8hntr

[pir8hntr]

Ambroid's Proweld is supposed to be really good, but is no longer being manufactured. Supposed to be too hazardous or something.
pir8hntr

[pir8hntr]

Herbie the Headless Horseman, has now become Herbie the headless and legless Horseman. Once again he fell off his horse and this time his left leg fell off when he landed on the mat on my desk. As with the body, you can see where the contact area is so small on the body and the leg has a very large opening on the end of it. Also the body has a dished out area where the alignment pins go in to. So once again we have the same issue as with the body. What I did, was cut some styrene and fill the hole in the end of the leg so it has a flat surface. The issue is, that you still have a non contact area with the body. I thought about trying to build it up with styrene and then shape it to fit, but decided against it. I had earlier experimented with the different kinds of putty and how they stuck to the plastic and how long they took to dry. Lysus and I discussed using putty to help stick the parts together along with the glue. I did glue the body back together and managed to reshape it well enough to get a better contact surface. The Gorilla Super glue I am using has a longer hold time and drying time that a lot of the super glues out there. I have tried to find some of the new Tamiya ABS glue from hobby shops in this area, but there suppliers are all telling them it is pending on delivery. Which means they don't have it yet. I can find it on ebay, but it is a 3+ week wait for it on a delivery from the orient. I know, I know, the build goes until December 31st and I am trying to be patient. I have found some other ABS glues and might try one of them. We'll see. The pictures show the issues with the leg and the body and the repair I did to the leg, If you are going to build one of these, I would suggest you do this before you attach either leg or the right arm.
pir8hnter

Opening in leg. Leaves a very small contact area for glue to adhere to.

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Repair of opening

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dished in portion on body where leg attaches. This shows how much dish there is and how little contact area around the out side

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[pir8hntr]

Quick update on Herbie the Headless Horseman who is becoming Lennie the Legless Horseman. No, the right leg hasn't fallen off yet, but its probably fixing to get ready to. I ordered some glue off of ebay that is supposed to glue ABS to ABS and glue ABS to styrene. It won't be here until the middle of next week, so when it gets here, we will try it and see how it works.Still no luck finding Tamiya ABS glue around here. Herbie has become a test mule for different products to try and fix the issues I have run across so youse guys youse, hopefully will have better luck on your build. But what will probably happen is someone will use regular styrene glue and not have a problem.
pir8hnter

[Lysus]

Yikes. Well, I'm hopeful that the new glue will do the trick. Otherwise I suspect Terry the Torso might cut a less frightening visage.

In the short story the specter/man in the costume wouldn't cross the old covered bridge, maybe the package did so and now its magic is undone.

[pir8hntr]

Terry the torso, I like that. I never thought about the crossing the bridge as a possible cause of all the problems I am having, but it does kinda sorta make sense. On the 6th of June under a waxing moon, I'll put him outside in the backyard and dance around him waving a bunch of smouldering chicken feathers and chanting OOGA BOOGA, OOGA BOOGA, OH YAY, OH YAY, and see if that drives the evil spirits out and restores my mojo on working on him. Stay tuned for further updates.
pir8hntr

[pir8hntr]

Hi all. Here we go again with the continuing saga of my glue don't stick the plastic together. I went to Hobby Lobby to get some paint and I noticed this Testors glue called Plastic Cement. I read the contents label, funny, I will do that for glue but not for what I eat, and it said it contained acetates and Methyl Ethyl Ketone, both of which should melt plastic. I read the directions and it said to apply sparingly to both sides, wait for 20 seconds, press firmly together and wait 20 seconds. Allow 2 hours drying for max strength. First of all, you must define sparingly. To sparingly, it evaporates well before 20 seconds are up. I tried it first with two pieces of round sprue, then sanded two pieces flat one one side. I glued them and held the pressure for 20 seconds and waited 2.5 hours. The round pieces never did glue and the flat pieces fell apart as soon as I picked them up. Hmm. Now what? So I decided to try it TET style and let them set over night. Once again, the round ones did not glue together. The flat ones did. Quite solidly as a matter of fact. I did wash the round ones, but not the ones I sanded off. So obviously this stuff needs a flat surface to bond to, so if you are doing a build with pipe, you would probably need to flatten where it connects if using this. I haven't tried it on any PE, because that is not what I am concerned with right now. I will later. I ordered another glue off ebay that should be here right shortly and will try that the same way and will post the results. This glue is not one you want to use if you are doing a speed build and are in a big hurry because you have to let this dry for several hours. I'm starting to move to a new desk that I used for rebuilding Jeep trans and transfer cases, so that is why it has a metal top.
pir8hntr

The results of the first test

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The flat sides of the ones that glued together

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[pir8hntr]

Hi, have you missed me? Hopefully this will be the last post about the glue issue. I can hear the cheering in the distance. I ordered a bottle of Weld-O-Matic glue from ebay. I don't know what is in it other than the label says petroleum products and it has directions to shake well before usage, but it is a clear liquid. The fumes from it are pretty intense when you open the bottle, kinda has a MEK/Acetone smell to it and is slightly(?) thicker than TET. One downside is the bottle is a taller, narrow based bottle, which would be a good candidate for a base made out of Formcard. This stuff evaporates really fast which doesn't work for spreading it on two parts then putting them together. It is designed to be used as a capillary type glue and does work that way really well. The bottle doesn't include a brush in the cap, so I used a #1 brush to put the glue on the parts and that was probably too large of brush to use for that. A TET sized brush would probably be about right. I tried the standard way of testing, round/round, sanded flat/sanded flat large, sanded flat/sanded flat small, sheet styrene/sheet styrene, and round styrene/round styrene. The round/round didn't stick just like was the other glues. Sanded flat/sanded flat large, really stuck together quite well. Sanded flat/sanded flat small, didn't really stick togehter and popped apart when stressed, but normally you aren't going to stress it. Sheet styrene/sheet styrene done smear and stick, didn't work at all. Capillary style really stuck it together. I did do a round/sheet styrene and it did stick together. One downside is this will eat Tamiya white putty right now. I know normally you don't glue after you putty, but this leg had been put on and puttied before it popped off. I did reglue the left leg back on and it really stuck. So we have gone from Herbie the headless Horseman, to Terry the Torso to Lennie the Legless Horseman, back to Herbie the Headless Horseman. This appears to be the glue to use on this Polar Lights kit. Next posts will concern other parts of the build, hurray.
pir8hntr

The bottle on the right is the last glue I tried

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Small sanded flat sides

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[Lysus]

The end of the glue saga?! Huzzah! Of course it was interesting, and I'm glad you soldiered through, but we're not posting on International Glue Tryers after all.

You must be thrilled to get back to business

[pir8hntr]

Believe me, you have no idea how happy I am to have finally figured this out. The only reason I did, is I think Twokidsnosleep has one he bought and probably several others, so it will give some ideas on what glue to use. I soldiered on, but there was a couple of times, okay more than a couple of times. when I thought about just saying bag it and putting it on the shelf. But I didn't. Okay, back to International Scale Modellers and sayonara to International Glue Tryers.
pir8hntr

[Les]

Sounds like he was being a pain in backside! Hopefully you got him sorted now.

[pir8hntr]

I'm filling all the seams on both the horse and body now. I'll post a couple of pictures of all the seams and I'll post a video showing what I found out about the different putties I used on this. I won't go into all the detail on ISM.
pir8hntr

[Lysus]

I'm filling all the seams on both the horse and body now. I'll post a couple of pictures of all the seams and I'll post a video showing what I found out about the different putties I used on this. I won't go into all the detail on ISM.
pir8hntr

Sweet! Though, feel free to go into all the detail you want, I read it all

[Twokidsnosleep]

Post a link to your u tube stuff when you do it, you will get more views
I kinda got kinda lost there....was cyanoacrylate, ie crazy glue, ok ???
That is my go to cement if the styrene cements won't work

[pir8hntr]

I did use krazy glue and it did work, but not as well as Gorilla Super Glue impact-tough formula or Weld-O-Matic glue. The Weld-O-Matic glue is the one that finally gave me the best performance. There is another glue that a guy building one used and it was called Ambroid something that is not available in the USA. Nothing has fallen off lately, so it must be working.
pir8hntr

[Twokidsnosleep]

Ok, good.
I have Gorrilla super glue and 4 viscosities of PM Hanson Ca glue so should find something that works

[pir8hntr]

The only thing I would suggest is sanding down flat spots on some pieces of sprue and trying the different glues on them. I run into a situation of the glues I was using not working on different places. I don't know why.
pir8hntr

[pir8hntr]

Hi, we're back. Since my last post on June 15th, I have went back to work, so I have been busy with that, working on my other builds, so I just took a break from this one for a while. One thing that has bothered me on this build is where the spurs come out of the boots, instead of off the back of the boots. Also the angle of them wasn't quite right shall we say and the size is a little odd. The boot heels are a little short so I added some sheet styrene to them. Where the torso attaches to the lower body, it didn't look quite right so I built it up with Milliput putty, but actually it probably wouldn't be seen that well. I have the left hand and what it will hold figured out and am finishing that up. Just a might different than the picture shall we say?
pir8hntr

body fill

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spurs where the instructions say to place them.

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back body fill spur holes plugged

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[pir8hntr]

These are the two bases for the Headless Horseman. Bases? Bases? We don't need no stinking bases!
pir8hntr

Basses

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